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Alexei Gorbunov is 26, bearded, and not much of a dancer, and when we first met in the bar of the M.

Paolo and I follow Greg's footsteps down a scree slope, skirting the couloirs and the first band of cliffs, then sliding on our tails down a ten-foot patch of steep, icy snow.

The track leads to a nearby village just nine miles across the Altiplano as the crow flies and if you zoom back in you can see its name: Tomarapi.

It was a giant automotive flea market—resurgent capitalism at its finest—and on weekends there were as many as 10,000 vehicles.